Ploder Rosenberg Fejro Austria 2017
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Manuel Ploder is the third generation to farm his family's estate on the Rosenberg at St. Peter am Ottersbach, in Austria's Vulkanland Steiermark, where he works with his partner Selina and his parents. The farm has been biodynamic since the mid-2000s and is Demeter certified. Most of its vines are PIWIs, fungus-resistant varieties, planted in loam laced with sand and gravel over volcanic subsoil. Fejro stands for fire in the house's four-element series, each wine named in Esperanto. The 2017 is 60 percent Souvignier Gris and 40 percent Gelber Traminer, fermented in clay amphorae with seven months on the skins and 28 more on the fine lees, then bottled unfiltered with no added sulfur. Rusty pink in the glass and warmly spiced, it brings goji berry, rosehip and pomegranate over orange zest, chamomile, cinnamon and propolis, finishing dry. Pour it cool, not cold, on a chilly evening, with game or a plate of Styrian runner beans.
