Weingut Mann Mischkultur Weiss Germany 2023
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Andi Mann is the youngest of eleven generations of his family to farm in Eckelsheim, in the Rheinhessische Schweiz, the stony, cool, hilly corner of southwestern Rheinhessen where volcanic porphyry runs through the vineyards. He works about ten hectares as holistically as he can and ferments everything spontaneously. Mischkultur is German for mixed planting, and the label shows grain, lupine and clover growing up around the vine. The four grapes, Scheurebe, Müller-Thurgau and Huxelrebe in equal shares plus a little Silvaner, are crushed as whole bunches and given ten days on the skins, then a year in a 2,400-liter oak cask before bottling, unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulfur. It drinks fresh, with elderflower and white peach up front, then grapefruit, a savory herbal streak, a flick of green olive and some gentle tannin. Pour it with roast duck or mushroom spätzle.
