Kapistoni Goruli Mtsvane Orange Georgia 2022
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Most of Georgia's Goruli Mtsvane grows on alluvial soil beside the Mtkvari river, the Aten Valley included, and the white grape is named for Gori, a city on that river. Kapistoni, whose winery sits in the eco-zone around Saguramo, has made a mission of showcasing Kartli's own varieties. It puts this one into qvevri, Georgia's big earthenware jars set below ground, to ferment with skin contact on its own yeasts, and oak and steel play no part. Afterward the wine is hand-racked into another qvevri several times, which removes first the skins, then the settled sediment, and it rests in clay a while longer before bottling. The color is pale amber; orange zest, apricot, and yellow apple come first, then chestnut honey, almond, and spring blossom. Its tannins are nutty and dry, and green apple and plum run long into the finish. Set it beside anything in a Georgian walnut sauce, or a plate of grilled vegetables.