Terrebrune Bandol Rouge 2019
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Georges Delille trained as a sommelier in Paris before buying this property at Ollioules, just east of Bandol, in 1963, then spent a decade terracing its hillsides, reworking its stonework, and replanting on the advice of Lucien Peyraud. His son Reynald joined him in 1980, and together they released the domaine's first bottled vintage under the name Reynald chose for its brown clay soils. Reynald now owns Terrebrune with Jean d'Arthuys. Beneath that clay lies fissured Triassic limestone, and breezes straight off the Mediterranean keep the fruit fresh. The vineyards have been farmed organically from the start, and the red, 85 percent Mourvèdre with 10 percent Grenache and 5 percent Cinsault, is hand-harvested, destemmed, fermented in underground gravity-fed tanks, aged 18 months in large oak foudres, and rested more than a year in bottle before release. Black fruit, maquis, olive, licorice, and truffle ride a satiny texture to a long, saline finish. Bandol built on finesse rather than muscle, with the structure to age for decades.