Bereche et Fils Campania Remensis Extra Brut Rose Champagne 2022

Campania Remensis was the Romans' name for the country around Reims, and Bérêche's rosé comes from one slope of it: Les Montées, a single three-hectare, south-facing plot in Ormes, just west of the city, inherited from Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche's maternal grandmother. The soil is light and sandy over deep chalk, and the vines are past the half-century mark. The 2022 is three quarters Pinot Noir and a fifth Chardonnay, with 5 percent still red wine from the same plot for color. Barrel-fermented with malolactic blocked, it aged three years on its lees before an Extra Brut finish. Raspberry, red cherry, and cranberry come first, with blood orange, mint, and chalk behind them; supple and textured, it rides bright acidity to a long finish with a salty tang. A rosé built for the dinner table as much as the aperitif hour.