Thanisch Riesling Kabinett 2023
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The Thanisch family's documented winemaking history on the Middle Mosel reaches back to 1636, and this estate carries the name of Katharina Thanisch, who took charge when her husband, Dr. Hugo Thanisch, died in 1895: Wwe. is short for Witwe, widow. She became a founding member of the VDP in 1910, and women have led the estate ever since; today Sofia Thanisch, the eleventh generation, runs it with her daughter Christina. The family farms only Riesling, all of it on steep slate and picked by hand, from the famed Doctor above Bernkastel to the Kues vineyards across the river that supply most of this estate wine. Made with wild yeasts and raised in small steel tanks, the Kabinett is finished feinherb, the Mosel's word for off-dry. Picked early in the harvest from healthy, ripe grapes, it is elegant rather than opulent, a light touch of sweetness set against bright acidity and slate-driven minerality. The Art Nouveau label, registered in 1901, still pictures the family villa, Landshut castle, and the town of Bernkastel.