Kapistoni Budeshuri Saperavi 2022
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At Kapistoni, in the village of Saguramo a short drive north of Tbilisi, winemaker Niko Chochishvili, whose family has made wine for more than seven generations, tends a marani of qvevri, the clay vessels sunk into the earth that anchor Georgia's 8,000-year winemaking tradition. The fruit comes from ecologically cultivated vineyards in Kartli, where ancient indigenous varieties still thrive; Budeshuri is a variant of Saperavi, Georgia's best-known red grape. It ferments on its skins for 7 to 10 days, then the skins come out and the wine matures in qvevri for 11 to 12 months before bottling. The 2022 pours a deep, nearly opaque ruby: blackberry and black cherry lead into ripe plum, dark chocolate, and a peppery edge of wild rose petal, carried on a full, velvety frame. Ancient method, confident result.
