Familia Montaña Rioja Reserva 2019
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The Montaña family's roots run back to the birth of modern Rioja in the late nineteenth century, and the family still keeps part of the medieval cellars beneath Haro, the capital of Rioja Alta. Román Montaña's grandson Oscar now runs the estate, which counts many old vines and a sizable planting of the rare Graciano. The Reserva comes from the family's Caracierzo and Torcalvo vineyards, 570 to 590 meters up on iron-rich clay and limestone, with vines planted between 1960 and 1985. Mostly Tempranillo with a little Graciano and Mazuelo, it spends 18 months in French oak, half a year longer than Reserva rules require, then 18 more in bottle. Plum and blackberry lead, with vanilla, a hint of cola and a thread of smoke running through the long finish. Grill some lamb chops, cut a wedge of semi-cured sheep's cheese, and pour generously.
