David Duband Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009
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David Duband's Échezeaux comes from Les Rouges du Bas, higher on the grand cru's slope near the forest: southeast-facing vines planted in the 1930s at 280 to 300 meters, where shallow, rocky red clay lies over limestone bedrock. Duband took over his family's domaine in the Hautes-Côtes village of Chevannes in 1991, gained access to grand cru parcels through his partner François Feuillet beginning in 1998, and farms organically. Since 2008 he has favored whole-cluster fermentation with gentle treading by foot, an infusion rather than an extraction, followed by roughly 14 months in barrel and bottling without fining or filtration. The 2009 vintage was warm and generous across the Côte de Nuits, and this bottle now carries more than a decade and a half of age. Mature Échezeaux from the upper slope: perfume over power.