Mas D'agalis Yo No Puedo Mas Vin de France 2022

Lionel Maurel named this cuvée in exasperation: yo no puedo más, or 'I can't take any more,' after the local tasting committee demoted the wine to table-wine status, and the fourth-generation vigneron of Nébian, northwest of Montpellier, has treated the humble Vin de France designation as a badge ever since. The 2022 is 40 percent Carignan and 40 percent Syrah with 20 percent Cinsault, organically farmed and picked by hand, fermented on native yeasts for about two weeks, then raised a year mostly in tank with a small share in ten-year-old barrels and bottled with minimal sulfur. Gamey spice and red fruit up front, darker fruit and earth behind, with a welcome bite of acidity. Languedoc nature with conviction.