Sheldrake Point Dry Riesling Finger Lakes New York 2023

Sheldrake Point farms 55 acres of estate vines on a point of land partway down the western shore of Cayuga Lake, on an east-facing slope that runs nearly to the water. The site is the story: the lake reaches depths of more than 400 feet and never quite lets the vineyard overheat or freeze, delaying budbreak past spring frost and stretching the autumn, while gravelly loam and clay over shale, limestone, and slate give the estate Rieslings their nerve. Founded in 1997 on a former orchard and dairy farm, the winery has made Riesling its signature ever since. The 2023 Dry Riesling was fermented in stainless steel to full dryness: citrus fruit and stony mineral flavors on a light frame, racy acidity, and a zingy, lingering finish at a moderate 10.5 percent alcohol. Textbook Cayuga Lake Riesling, all nerve.