Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2022 1.5L

Magnums of Joh. Jos. Prüm are about as sure a cellar bet as Riesling offers: the estate's wines evolve famously slowly even in standard bottles, and the 1.5 liter format stretches that arc further still. This Spätlese comes from old, largely ungrafted vines in Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the stony Devonian slate slope named for the sundial painted there in 1842 by a Prüm ancestor. The warm, dry 2022 season gave a wine of unusual generosity for the house: white peach, sliced pear, rose, and honeysuckle on the nose, a dense, juicy palate, and a long saline finish that reads drier than the Prädikat suggests. Spätlese here means later-picked fruit whose sweetness is woven into acidity rather than sitting on top of it. One magnum, two decades of drinking windows.