Folias de Baco Uivo Renegado Vinhas Velhas Portugal 2024

Tiago Sampaio grew up among vines near Alijó on the Douro's high planalto, earned a doctorate in enology at Oregon State, and returned in 2007 to found Folias de Baco, whose Uivo wines (uivo means howl) helped open the path for natural winemaking in Portugal. Renegado Vinhas Velhas comes from two hectares of roughly 80-year-old vines on schist and granite, a true field blend of more than 25 red and white varieties, Rufete and Tinta Barroca tangled among Gouveio, Rabigato, and Malvasia Fina. Whole clusters macerate for three days, ferment on wild yeasts in 1,000-liter granite lagares, then rest briefly in cement with a small fraction in old chestnut barrels, unfined and unfiltered. Bright, juicy red fruit, feather-light tannins, and a cool stony freshness. Unfussy by design, and gone quickly.