Costador Metamorphika Macabeu Brisat 2024

Joan Franquet's Costador project farms very old vines in the Catalan hills of Conca de Barberà, organically and biodynamically, with clay amphorae doing most of the work in the cellar. Brisat is the Catalan term for a skin-fermented white, and this one commits: Macabeu from vines 70 to 80 years old, planted as high as 800 meters, spends a minimum of twelve weeks on the skins, half of it whole-cluster, fermenting spontaneously in amphora before months of further rest in the same vessels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it pours gold-amber and opens with apricot, mango, orange zest, wildflowers, and candied ginger over a trace of toffee. Orange wine with real pedigree, not a passing fashion.