Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rouge 2021

Sylvain Pataille is the reference point of Marsannay: born in the village, trained in oenology at Bordeaux, consultant to a roster of prestigious Burgundy domaines, and, since founding his own estate in 1999 with a single hectare, the appellation's most persuasive advocate. He now farms some 15 hectares organically, Ecocert certified since 2008, with biodynamic methods. The village Marsannay Rouge draws Pinot Noir from vines planted between 1950 and 1980 in parcels across the appellation, fermented with ambient yeasts and about 30 percent whole clusters, then raised 18 months in older barrels and bottled with minimal sulfur. From the cool, frost-shortened 2021 vintage, it leans to raspberry, plum, and rose petal, medium-bodied with lively acidity and a gently saline finish: classic Côte de Nuits proportions. The clearest introduction to a village on the rise, from the man driving the rise.