Lafarge Vial Cote de Brouilly 2020 1.5L

When Frédéric and Chantal Lafarge of Volnay's Domaine Michel Lafarge went looking for new terroir in 2014, they chose cru Beaujolais, bringing Demeter-certified biodynamics and Côte d'Or discipline with them. Their Côte de Brouilly comes from Brulhié, a 0.66-hectare parcel of gobelet-trained Gamay planted in the late 1960s on the southeast flank of Mont Brouilly, where granite is shot through with the blue stone that defines the hill; the slope is too steep for tractors, so a horse does the plowing. Hand-harvested fruit is mostly destemmed with a portion of whole clusters, fermented on ambient yeasts, and aged about a year in used 228- and 350-liter barrels. This magnum gives the wine the runway it deserves. Volnay rigor, Gamay pleasure.