Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2021

No bottling is more closely tied to Joh. Jos. Prüm than Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese, the wine on which this Wehlen estate built its name after its founding in 1911. The vineyard, named for the sundial a Prüm ancestor painted onto its slate face in 1842, is a wall of stony, weathered Devonian slate where old, largely ungrafted vines produce the Mosel's most patiently evolving Riesling. The cool 2021 harvest, which began in the second week of October, gave Spätlesen of rare delicacy: candied orange, lime, and nectarine over a flinty core, a crystalline, mouthwatering palate, and savory lemon freshness on the finish, gentle sweetness and racing acidity woven together throughout. Drink it in twenty years, or forty. This is the marathon runner of the Mosel.