Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2022 1.5L

Kabinett is the quietest voice in the Joh. Jos. Prüm range and, for many, the most haunting: 8 percent alcohol, delicate sweetness, and acidity that carries it for decades. This magnum comes from the estate's core holding in Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the sundial vineyard whose largely ungrafted old vines grow from stony weathered Devonian slate directly across the river from the winery in Wehlen. Even in the warm, dry 2022 season the wine keeps its lace: bracing white peach, lemon, and lime over cut stone, smoke and salt threading a lifted, off-dry palate through a long mineral finish. In the 1.5 liter format, the one collectors reach for when a wine is this long-lived, it will barely have stirred by its tenth birthday.