Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2021

The sundial that names Wehlener Sonnenuhr was painted onto the vineyard's slate face in 1842 by Jodocus Prüm, an ancestor of the family that still farms the site's heart. Joh. Jos. Prüm's largely ungrafted old vines grow nearly straight out of stony, weathered Devonian slate on this near-vertical slope across the river from the winery, and they yield the estate's most elegant wines. Kabinett is the lightest Prädikat, its gentle sweetness balanced by bright acidity, and the cool 2021 harvest delivered a textbook example at just 7.5 percent alcohol: vineyard peach, cassis, and lime zest over crushed slate, an airy, light-footed palate, and a finish of striking purity. Give it time; Prüm's wines are famously unhurried. Few bottles say Mosel more precisely.