Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2021

Graacher Himmelreich, the kingdom of heaven, rises directly across the Mosel from Joh. Jos. Prüm's cellars in Wehlen, its steep weathered Devonian slate broken by pockets of blue slate over deeper, water-holding soils. The site is the racier counterpart to the estate's Wehlener Sonnenuhr: more citrus, more cut, a touch quicker to open. Spätlese, from later-picked and riper fruit, adds flesh to that frame, and in the cool 2021 vintage the balance is exceptional, Dr. Katharina Prüm's Spätlesen showing more fruit than her Kabinetts while keeping the year's electric acidity. Lime zest and lemon pith lead into white flowers, peach, and a thread of blackcurrant, closing stony and precise with springlike freshness. Built, like everything from this house, for the long haul.