Champagne Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier 1er Cru Brut

Désiré Vilmart founded this house in 1890 in Rilly-la-Montagne, at the foot of the Montagne de Reims, and the same family still farms only Premier Cru vineyards there and in neighboring Villers-Allerand. The plantings run 70 percent Chardonnay to 30 percent Pinot Noir, a ratio that goes against Champagne tradition, and Grand Cellier follows it exactly. Cellar master Laurent Champs picks by hand, vinifies every cuvée in oak foudres and barrels, skips malolactic fermentation to hold on to freshness and tension, and gives the non-vintage wines three to four years in the domaine's chalk cellars. Warm stone, juicy mandarin, and bergamot lead into white flowers and a touch of star anise; the palate is fresh and deep at once, carried by fine, persistent bubbles to a long finish of spice and yellow fruit. Made for the table with oysters, sole, or turbot, though it needs no excuse as an apéritif.